|
centre, then work toward the right side of the room. Much depends though on the room layout. During this process the need for repair work may become evident. Once the rough sanding has taken place, borer or termite damage may have |
been exposed. If repairs are required, do those before you continue with the sanding. If the floor is in a sad state the second cut can be made in the same manner as above but working at 90 degrees to the first cut. Only do this if absolutely necessary and ensure that the boards are thick enough. The third cut (or as in most cases the second cut) is carried out in the direction of the boards. As the boards are now mainly level and most of the old coatings removed this cut may be done with a higher grit paper than the diagonal cuts. Once a new path has been cut, move to the left or right and ensure an overlap of 50 to 100 mm. Continue this process across the room. When the full width of the room is sanded, turn around and sand the other side of room. Step 3. Edging Now it is time to use the edge sander. The perimeter needs to be sanded level and blended into the body of the floor. Overlap a distance of some 100 to 150 mm. Care should be taken that the machine is held level so that the edger does not dig groves into the boards. Repeat the sanding and edging gradually working up to a finer grit. Grades of paper used on the edging machine are the same as those used on the belt sander; if you started sanding with a 40 grit and finished with 120 grit then use the same sanding grits for the edging. If you think you can take shortcuts by starting off sanding with 40 grit and then jumping to 100 grit, you will have a badly scratched floor and will need more time and materials to rectify the scratches left by the 40 grit papers. Never use an edge sander in the middle area of the floor. It could leave swirl marks or deep cuts that may be very difficult to sand out. Middle sanding The second sanding removes the scratches left from the previous sanding and creates a finer surface. Repeat the same process, but this time use a finer grit than previously. This time, only move the machine along the length of the boards; no cross cutting is necessary. Again, use the edge sander with the same grit paper that you have just used to do the main part of the floor. | ||
The final sand The final sand uses a finer grade of paper – once again reducing the depth of the scratching and prepares the floor for the coating system. Vacuum the floor, not forgetting the window sills and door frames. Corners For areas that the edge sander cannot reach use a triangle sander and sand close into the corners and around the door frames finishing off with at least 120 grit sandpapers. Ensure that all sanding marks have been removed. If no machine is at hand, use a sharp paint scraper. The scraping action should always be in the direction of the grain. Then sand by hand along the grain of the timber to a fine finish. If you do not have a paint scraper and your corners are heavily varnished or have paint spills, use a sharp chisel to gently remove the varnish or paint, then sand by hand again along the grain of the timber. Buffing If using a synthetic varnish, then this step may not be necessary. If, however, you intend to use natural oils, it is highly recommended. This will achieve a finer finish and a surface that will not require re-sanding when rejuvenation is necessary. Fit the buffer with a white pad and a 100 grit screen back (sanding screen disc). If you have never used a buffer/ rotary sander previously, start in the centre of the room and work it towards the wall slowly. Never let it sit in one place and over sand a spot. Work around the perimeter of the room. Once back to the starting point move the buffer backwards and forwards across the grain. Overlap each pass generously and sand the entire floor. Move slowly and get close to the edges. Pay particular attention to the area where the belt sander and |
edger overlapped. One side of the screen back should be enough for a 20m2 room. Turn the screen back upside down and repeat the procedure, however this time working along the grain of the timber. Repeat the buffing with a 150 screen back in the same manner as above. Cleaning Vacuum thoroughly not forgetting window sills, door frames etc. It is recommended that floors be vacuumed in the same direction as the floorboards. Do not drag the vacuum cleaner along the freshly sanded boards as marks may be left. The floor should now be scratch free. If using natural penetrating oils these will enhance the colour and structure of the timber but will also highlight any imperfections in the sanding, even more so if using stains. If using a varnish, then it is imperative to remove all dust and grit from the floor and surrounding areas. If not, the dust will adhere to the freshly lacquered floor and give a gritty look. Finishing the floor Apply the floor finish you have chosen once sanding is completed. Do not allow others on the floor as they may have contaminants on their shoes that will only show up once the floor is coated. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and wear protective equipment if necessary to guard against strong vapours. It may be necessary to arrange alternative accommodation for some days. Sanding floors is strenuous to say the least and you need to weigh up the cost of and accessibility of machines and materials and the time involved. It may be more cost effective to have it done professionally and have someone else accountable for the sanding and finishing. If you do sand and treat your floor, the sense of achievement will far exceed the aches and pains. |